It's been raining a lot lately, so we've had some really spectacular rainbows and double rainbows.  We can usually see two or three a day.  I suppose they'll get old some day, but for now, I still have to make Steve come and see them all. 
We're not doing anything much new here.  Just hanging out, grocery shopping, doing laundry.  We generally come into Ste Anne once a day to walk, have coffee and Internet, buy bread, practice speaking french.  We're on the 'baguette a day' program. I think I'm addicted to fresh bread, with butter, and some kind of sauce to dip it in, and of course, wine.  Hmmm, maybe it's not just the bread I'm addicted to.
We're anchored off a long, white, sandy beach, with a Club Med on the far end.  Our spot affords us an unimpeded view of the beach goers and all the bars and restaurants along the shore. After much observation, I've decided that European men's Speedo's come in one color, black, and two sizes, XS and S.  The size a man buys has nothing to do with his actual body size.  It only determines how far up he wants to pull the suit.  Most men seem to buy the XS.

Sitting Ste Annes Martinique

 

Last Night's Sunset, Best with Cabernet Sauvignon

      Weather is beautiful. The solar and wind power are up to their job. Almost all systems are go, even though saying so is often a bad omen. The days are going by fast. Each filled with a bit of boat work, a bit of walking, a bit of gathering from the local markets, sometimes a walk on the beach, a bit of wine at sundown, and all usually followed with a bit of food preparation put together from the local fare. Most often it is a great feast, often with the deliberate overproduction offering a nice lunch for the day after. The exchange rate is fair, the choices are great so we choose wisely for our budget, eat at home and have had some fantastic meals.

New Dingy Cover or "Chaps"

    On the boat side, we have now (finally) completed the dingy “chaps” protecting the material from the Caribbean sun so I’m posting a photo here. A bit of adjustment is still needed but until they have to come off for another reason, they will do what they are designed to do. Today, wiring the second solar panel through the charge controller. With enough wind and sun to keep the batteries full, this has suddenly moved up in the priorities.

St Lucia ... Martinique

St Lucia at a Glance

Market Haul

Anchorage at Rodney Bay St Lucia

    We came in to St Lucia to watch the Old Year’s Night fireworks and were not disappointed. Once recovered from the rough sail up and a bit of maintenance on Celebration, we were off exploring. One of the first things for us is always a trip to the local market and St Lucia didn’t let us down. Lynn already mentioned the local food and we found ourselves getting a plate there every Saturday after.

Pitons and Soufriere

Volcano  at Soufriere

Always interesting to us is how many folks travel but fail to see or experience beyond the “touristy” spots. In this way our weekly food plate at the market turned into some great fun. While many tourist types and cruise ship passengers walked through, some even bought crafts and trinkets, we were among the few non-locals buying fruits, vegetables, and eating street food there. In every case we’d be sitting at our favorite vender with people walking by staring at our giant plates while we ate away. Sooner or later one would stop and inquire “Is it good?” or “have you eaten here before?” Our answers of “great” and “yes we eat here every week” would inevitably bring on the “and you feel OK after?” line of questions or the “you’re not from a cruise ship, are you” comments. Not many minutes later the vendor’s tables would be full of non-locals with the food and beer overflowing. Slowly we’d head on our way looking for the bus back or the next street over for another discovery.

Off to Martinique

Wine Tasting

Looking toward Martinique

    Almost a week ago now we left St Lucia and headed north about 25 miles to Martinique. The sail was sporty and the wind from the direction we wanted to go but the trip short so we tacked and tacked, eventually sailing up to the anchorage. We are anchored off of the southeast corner in front of Ste Annes.  The area is beautiful, shopping for wine, cheese and bread is exemplary. Of course as we arrived we saw old friends from other anchorages and we were soon over at s/v Jammin’ (Dave & Helen) for a small wine tasting. All the couples had gone into town and found several low prices bottles/boxes. So that night we each arrived with our new found bargain beverages and proceeded to taste them around the cockpit, compare thoughts, prices, and take thumbs up/down photo’s so we could remember which ones we liked. One of our favorites turned out to be the Grands Prelats Janfort…made even more favored with the $2.01 Euro price.

Anchorage at Ste Annes

So for around $2.67 (US) a nice red for cooking as well as the table. Sure went well with the seafood chowder and great company (Rod & Mary, s/v Sheer Tanacity) last night. So far we are loving Martinique; clean, friendly, great food shopping, beautiful beaches, and the US Dollar/Euro exchange rate is much better than our last visit. If there is a negative it is a distinct lack of free internet. But a coffee at a local shop will allow a connection as part of the bargain. Throw in a couple Pain du Chocolate pastries and it’s just about perfect. Now to get to work on my (currently lack of) French. We could be here a while…

Boat Repairs in Exotic Locations

Orriginal Delco 12si Layout

    Some say that is the true definition of cruising. We heard that many times before leaving on this journey so we tried to keep our systems as simple as possible. Regardless, there is always something. We minimize power consumption as much as possible but we do enjoy a large dose of ice with our small (ahem) dose of rum in the evening. We have a minimum of solar/wind power which usually does fine, but when the engine runs, I want as much power out of it as I can get. I set the plant up with two 100 amp alternators—one for the engine bank and a second for the house bank.  After arriving in the Caribbean heat the house bank was left wanting thus a conversion to a 200 amp for the house bank. The big alternator is built on a Delco 12si case and put out power as advertised. Unfortunately the builder had a smaller non-AGM battery bank and thus good success with the stock diodes. We proceeded to blow out sets of diodes regularly when we taxed the system.  Not good.

Stock rectifier shown but with new
holes already in the case

210 Amp rectifier
Trial Fit

    The fix: I found 210 amp bridge rectifiers specifically designed to “fit” the Delco 12si case and had a couple brought down with Hannah and Cameron. Well “fit” clearly means different things to different folks. Yes they would “fit” in the case and slightly (very slightly) clear the stator and rotor. But they really didn’t “fit” as in none of the holes or electrical connections lined up and lots of in-case mountings and ridges blocked the position. What’s to lose I thought and after some contemplation I busted out the dremel with cutting wheel and went to town. I removed all the pesky ridges and mounting studs, drilled and tapped new mounts, and reset the location of the main power connection. After a bit of aluminum fitting fastened down with JB Weld to provide additional support for the main power stud it all went together. Well almost. I also had to cut off the stock regulator connection so the brush and connections would clear the bridge rectifier. 

Aluminum fitting being "welded" to
case for main power stud

Final Assembly, Close but Functional

     With some trepidation I mounted it, wired it all up and it didn’t work! Aw crap. Bad news, I had to take it apart again, good news, the problem was simple. A small piece of the toothpick I used to retain the brushes during assembly had broken off when I removed it and was still keeping one of the brushes from making contact.  Now loving the power it produces, quickly pushes the bank into absorption stage so the solar and wind can easily finish the job. Time to buckle down and build the backup with the new kit as well. The only problem has been as Lynn referenced, the big stator as well as the electric refrigeration and watermaker clutches all spinning at once threw off the auto helm compass. Now repositioned, I'll report back on that some other time.

Starting a New Year,

Interesting, always colorful architecture.

this time in St Lucia.  We took advantage of what we thought would be a fairly good weather window and left Grenada for the 160 mile trip north to St Lucia.   Coming down through the Caribbean last summer, we only spent 2 days here and had put it on the top of the list of places to revisit.  Our sail turned out not-so-nice, with me, and Adjima, fetal position sick the whole way. Nothing like barfing for 30 hours to make me really glad to see Rodney Bay appear from behind the rocks. Steve had to single hand the entire day, in winds upward of 30kts and big confused seas.  It was one of 'those' sails: the nav computer quit, the auto helm wouldn't work while the engine and the water maker were both on (something about too many magnets spinning too close to the compass), it rained and rained, the sunbrella on the jib ripped and at 5am the fuel filters clogged from all the gunk getting stirred up in the wild motion. Steve was very kind when I dragged myself to the cockpit to stand watch while he changed the filters.  He said and I'm paraphrasing here, "Don't do anything. Just keep us on course."  And I did. Until I got just the faintest whiff of diesel...  We were only a mile or so off the rhumb line when he came back up an hour later.

We ran into some friends as we were leaving the grocery the next day and went along with them to the market in Castries, a few miles down the road.  It was a great outdoor fresh fruit and veg market, with lots of trinkets for the cruise ship people thrown in alongside. There was a restaurant row, with all local food and we of course had to sample.  On my plate, above, I had: fall off the bone delicious chicken legs, baked mac and cheese, lettuce salad, beans and rice over breadfruit, pasta, and plantains. Steve was the only one in the group to clean his plate. This lunch for 2, including beer, was less than $12. I was definitely over my sea sickness.

This is 'the season' in the Caribbean.  Tourists from all over the world come here to soak up the sun.  We're anchored off a Sandal's Resort and their guests are jet skiing, windsurfing, para sailing, diving, horseback riding, Hobie-catting, having funning all around the boat.  It's great to sit and watch.  The large sailing cruise boats come right up into Rodney bay and anchor for the day.  I love this picture of the old wooden La Graceau against the new Wind Spirit.

We have a few repairs to make here and some sightseeing to do, so we plan to stay a couple of weeks. Come on down.

Merry Christmas from Grenada



Lynn Preparing for "Drinks in the Drink"

Cooling off at Seven Sister Falls

    What a season it is. Warm, windy, no snow of course but it is tough to believe it is Christmas after all those northern winters. But the beauty of it this year is that both our daughters have been here for a visit.

Hannah & Cameron above the Caranage

Touring Grenada Distilleries

     Hannah arrived a week ago Friday with her partner Cameron. He is a brave man traveling 1000 miles to not just meet the parents, but to stay on a sailing boat with them for a week. OK, he made a couple points with me right there, but in the end he is a nice man. Fun, confident, adventurous, kind, well read…maybe even a little quirky like the rest of us. Certainly a good fit. We spent the week hiking, swimming, sightseeing and in the evenings cooking and tasting various rums and spicing combinations.

X-Mass Eve Dinner

    Amanda arrived the night before Hannah and Cameron left allowing us one night of full family togetherness. Very fun as all the catching up, storytelling, eating, and rum tasting went late into the night.  Next day was pretty much naps all round. Since then we have been out doing much of the same with Amanda. Last night the three of us spent x-mass eve at Da Big Fish with traditional x-mass food, great friends Chris and Anne (Mr Mac), and excellent entertainment from guitarist/singer Baracuda.

    Today the cinnamon rolls baking, for dinner later we plan roasted chicken, potatoes, beets and a wonderful sticky toffee pudding made by Anne.

Happy Birthday Amanda

    Meanwhile…the rolls are done and out of the oven while I edited a couple photos so one more here of Amanda blowing out candles on her “Birthday” Breakfast Rolls.

Grenada For a Week

    Same theme right? But this time the plan is for more than a week. Hannah (and her boyfriend) are due to arrive a week from tomorrow and Amanda the following Wednesday. We are so excited! Meanwhile doing a few boat projects in preparation. and loving Grenada. With the exception of the occasional “Camp” atmosphere among cruisers and a couple camp “Councilors Gone Wild” it is nearly as great as Trinidad. BTW: Anyone who has been here for a week or so knows exactly what I mean by Camp & Councilors comment. Nuff said to use an old friend’s quote.

Some of the boats near the Fish Market

Lynn loves all the color

Preped and ready

    This week’s project, ah varnish. Oh how I love the beauty and texture of wood on a boat. It just belongs there instead of all the synthetics today. But it also needs a lot of love if it is to stay beautiful. While we are on the fast track in this sun to a natural gray finish for the toe rails, we’re still keeping all of our cockpit varnish. 

Radar and GPS leads all taped out of the way

One coat down, ??? more to go

A day of prep, a day of rain, a day of varnish. Frankly, I’m not very good at it, but a friend of ours, one of the word working “masters” provided some council after watching my struggle. Dennis bolstered my confidence by stating “Don’t worry, only the last coat counts”, after which he dashed my enthusiasm by also proclaiming that “when it’s on a sailboat; it’s NEVER the last coat.”  Tomorrow we’ll try another pass.

Trinadad for a Week

    We left Grenada one evening on a good wind for Trinidad. The plan was to come in, say hello to our friends Chris and Anne of Mr Mac, refuel, re-provision, and head back north. Maybe for Tobago, maybe Barbados, or maybe back to Grenada or Bequia, a week or maybe two at the most. Well here we are…still in Trinidad. Yes we have refueled and bought all the provisions the checkbook will stand….but there is just so much more.

Cathedral of Rum (aging)

    For starters, the country is beautiful. The topography, the people, the culture, the city, and the rainforest all are worth the visit. After all that the availability of resources here is clearly the top of the Caribbean. On a search of downtown Port of Spain Lynn and some friend found the textile district, blocks of stores with every type, color and weave of fabric one can imagine. So after an extensive list we have aboard one very large roll of Sunbrella canvas for making a set of dingy chaps and redoing some of our shade awnings. She also picked out new upholstery material for what will eventually become new cushions in the saloon. And one of the best finds was some inexpensive netting for bug screens on our opening side hatches. Oh and have I mentioned the food? Fabulous spicy mix of Indian, European, South American, and Island cultures. Doesn’t matter if it’s the street fare (Doubles at $3tt-4tt each, two of which make a meal) or a meal out (lunch today as much as we could eat was $72tt) it is done right. A bit adventurous at times, lots of eating sticky, juicy foods with fingers but nothing a bit of water and a couple napkins won’t take care of. By the way the exchange rate is $6.37tt to the US dollar so yes that was lunch for two at less than $11.50.   

Pan Under Construction

Pan Making Tools

 We have found time for a visit to the Pan (Steel Drum) factory, the Caroni Swamp, and toured the local rum distillery, but of course that IS a requirement for any Caribbean island.

Caroni Swamp

Mandatory post-tour Tasting

One From the Relic Collection

    One of our highlights was an overnight trip to the Asa Wright wildlife Sanctuary. After a trip up the mountain valley to the old plantation house, now sanctuary headquarters, we got cabin assignments, a great meal, and then a night hike to see the creatures of the evening. Morning dawned with us gathered on the balcony of the main building, looking over the rain forest, coffee  in hand watching as thousands of birds began feeding at sunrise within unaided view. Hummingbirds to Tucans, with many other birds we haven’t even seen in zoos.

Balcony at Asa Wright

The real birders were carefully making drawings, taking notes, squinting through binoculars, whipping through reference books, checking off their lists, and at the end of the day counting up the number of new “sightings” Me; I sat with my coffee while the Hummingbirds flashed over every single flower on the bush followed by another, then another right over the rail next my stool. I simply enjoyed their flight, their speed, their grace; wondered at the strength to weight ratio they must surely have and enjoyed the quiet of the sunrise. Took no notes, made no drawings, and carried no reference books. I did think about Dick and Edie (Lynn’s parents) and contemplated how much they would enjoy a trip to this sanctuary. After breakfast, sans bacon to Lynn’s chagrin, we were led on an extended walk where a local expert pointed out the various bird rituals and locations, even a few that sat camouflaged perfectly for their surroundings, would have been missed without a guide pointing the way.

Divali Meal

    Another highlight outing was the Divali Celebration. This Hindu tradition is a Festival of Lights celebrated on the darkest night between mid October and Mid November. As I understand it the festival is to ward off the evil in life while celebrating the good. With no moon the street was lined with racks made from split bamboo, then covered with lights made of small clay pots, rolled cotton wicks, and filled with coconut oil. We visited a Indian Temple, listened to traditional music, ate fabulous food…curries of pumpkin, mango, black eyed peas, and flat bread and much more, all off fresh banana leaves, no silverware, no meat, and no alcohol. 

Street Lighting with Bamboo and Coconut oil

We walked the streets after filling our stomachs to find another tradition to be gifts of sweets handed to passersby from local families. We had been warned to graciously accept as this is the tradition, no compensation, no return gifts. So we nibbled until we could no more, then subtly slid the small bundles into pockets, purses, hats as we enjoyed the beautiful Indian dress of men and women walking the streets, sitting in front of their homes taking in the festival.

   All that just to let you know we are still in Trinidad and have not really fallen off the edge of the earth. Yes a look at the dates between updates explains why we’ve received emails inquiring whether we had. There has simply been too much, time going too fast, both work and play, so we have been remiss. Besides, we have been heading out weekends to an Island not far from here called Chacachacare. Calm, quiet, peaceful anchorage, and unlike near the industrial centers… dark. Saturday night we lay on the deck with our “his” and “hers” binoculars looking at Saturn. With the night dark and the air clear after a long rain we could literally see the rings and count the moons with our 7X binos. Too cool. We’ll be heading out of here soon…probably…maybe.

Just a quick video I shot as we came into Trinidad.  It'll give you an idea of the terraine. Too bad it can't give you a feel for the himidity.  WOW. It's actually nice and cool when it rains or is cloudy, but the second the sun comes out and hits all that moisture in the air: instant steam sauna. 
Right now, I'm sitting under the picnic shelter, next to the bar at TTSA, watching the daily deluge, moving occasionally to stay out of the drips. 
The shopping bus just returned and disgorged a dozen other cruisers and all their mornings packages and groceries.  They've all crowded under the picnic area and now my quiet is filled with chatter in several different languages.  Trinidad is a mecca for cruisers from around the world. At last night's potluck we met cruisers from Switzerland, South Africa, New York, New Zealand and England.  Since we're below the hurricane belt, cruisers come here to spend the season, haul their boats and have work done in one of the 12 or so boat yards. Pretty much anything that needs to be found/repaired/replaced or fabricated for a boat can be done here.  And done in wood or fibreglass or metal.  We (meaning Steve) have an extensive list and have to sit down and see what we really need to do or have made while we're here.  I'd just like to find some mahogany to make a new set of companionway stairs, our 'temporary' set is almost 3 years old.
The video wouldn't upload, I'll try again tomorrow.

Trinidad!

No photos today, I forgot the cord to attach the camera to the computer.  We got into Trinidad after a beautiful, overnight, full moon sail from Grenada.  After a quick check in with Immigration and Customs, we made our way around to the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association.  TTSA has a large mooring field and anchorage.  We chose to anchor so that we can swing with the wind and keep the boat a little cooler.  The moored boats are moored bow and stern so they can be packed in pretty tightly and there is no swinging going on.  The sun here is brutaly hot, so any breeze is welcome. 
Generally when we get into a new country we spend the first few days getting to know our way around and checking out the buses and grocery stores.  Here in Chaguaramas, the first thing to do was get our mail sent from Florida.  It seems that debit cards have expiration dates and that cash machines give their version of a belly laugh when you try to use one that's expired!  Who knew??  Anyway, we pooled our available Euros, EC, $$ and TT and are making due until the mail comes, sometime next week, we hope.  (We've had friends offer to loan us money until our card comes, but we think that if we have to suffer a little now, we may remember to check the dates in the future. (insert another belly laugh here.))
We have lots of friends here, we're all still waiting out the hurricane season and we're looking forward to catching up with them and also meeting all our new neighbors here st TTSA.  There are several tours planned, one of which is called "A Taste of Trini", an all day trip where we get to eat our way around the island.  Can't wait for that one.